Enoshima Island
江の島
A 4-kilometer island with a three-part shrine, sea caves, a lighthouse, and more cats per square meter than almost anywhere
About Enoshima Island
Enoshima is a small island connected to the Shonan coast by a 600-meter causeway, rising to 60 meters above sea level and circling about 4 kilometers of coastline. The main draw is the ascent through Benten Nakamise Street, past the torii gates of Enoshima Shrine, to the Sea Candle observation lighthouse and the cliffs at the island's far end, where two sea caves carved into the rock by wave action over centuries contain Buddhist statues and one wall that glows with embedded minerals. The island has dozens of cats, concentrated in the side alleys and the residential areas away from the main tourist path. Shirasu-don (whitebait rice bowl) is the signature meal, eaten with Sagami Bay visible through the restaurant windows.
Essential Tips
The Enoshima Escar (outdoor escalator, ¥360 for all 3 sections) is worth it going up. Walk back down for the side alleys, cats, and stone step views
Mt. Fuji is visible from the Sea Candle on clear days, best November through March. Summer visibility is usually poor due to atmospheric haze
Sea caves (Iwaya) close at 6 PM (last entry 5:30 PM). Build the cave visit into the afternoon, not the end of the day
Fresh shirasu (whitebait) season: April through December. Order nama shirasu-don to get the raw version. Restaurants line Nakamise Street and the area near the top of the Escar
Check the tide table before visiting the caves. Low tide makes the approach significantly easier
The Kamakura-Enoshima Free Pass from Shinjuku (approximately ¥1,970) covers return train + unlimited Enoden: the best value for a day trip
Weekend and summer crowds are extreme. The causeway can back up; arrive by 10 AM on weekends
The cats are in the side streets and the fishing boat area, not on the main tourist path. Explore the alleys east of the Escar
Sunset over Sagami Bay from the Sea Candle garden terrace (Samuel Cocking Garden) is free of the observation fee and worth the wait in clear weather
Enoshima Station (Enoden) is the most scenic arrival: the short walk from the station past the torii gate and into the causeway is part of the experience
Don't Miss
Sea Candle and Mt. Fuji View
The Enoshima Sea Candle is a white lighthouse tower near the island's highest point. The observation deck at the top (¥500) gives a 360-degree view over Sagami Bay, the Miura and Izu Peninsulas, and, on clear days (best in winter and early spring), the full silhouette of Mt. Fuji rising above the water to the northwest. In summer the atmosphere is hazy and the mountain often invisible; winter mornings are the best chance.
Iwaya Sea Caves
At the far western end of the island, two caves were carved into the cliffs by wave action over centuries. The first cave (152m) has a mineral-embedded rock wall that glows faint blue-green in candlelight (candles provided on entry). Buddhist statues occupy niches throughout both caves. The second cave is shorter and ends at a viewing point above the open sea. Admission ¥500. Low tide makes the approach easier. The caves are one of Enoshima's oldest religious sites.
Shirasu-don (Whitebait Bowl)
The specialty of Enoshima and the Shonan coast is shirasu (whitebait), served fresh in season from April through December. Fresh shirasu on rice (nama shirasu-don) has a translucent, delicate flavor completely different from the dried version available year-round. The restaurants along Benten Nakamise Street and the side streets near the top of the escalator serve shirasu-don for ¥1,200-1,600. Eat with a view of the bay if you can.
Island Cats
Enoshima's cat population is famous enough that the island is known informally as 'neko no shima' (cat island). The cats are concentrated in the side alleys between the main tourist path and the residential areas, and around the fishing boat area on the island's west side. They are generally calm and accustomed to people. The island's cats have been present for centuries, originally kept by silk merchants to protect silk stock from mice.
What to Do Here
Full Island Circuit
Cross the causeway, walk up Nakamise Street, take the Escar or walk the stone steps to the shrine levels, visit the Sea Candle observatory, then continue on foot to the far end of the island and the Iwaya Caves. Return via the southern coastal path which passes through the botanical garden area and gives different views of the bay than the main path. This route covers everything significant without repeating.
Tips:
- The Enoshima Escar (outdoor escalator, ¥360) covers the steepest section; worth it going up
- Walk down rather than taking the Escar back: the stone steps and side alleys are where the cats are
- The caves are at the far west end: budget 30-40 minutes including the walk from the Sea Candle
- Return along the south coast path for fewer crowds and better bay views
- Low tide for the caves: check the Kamakura/Shonan tide tables before visiting
Sunset at the Sea Candle
Arrive in the late afternoon, take the Escar or walk up to the Sea Candle, and watch the sun set over Sagami Bay from the observation deck or the Samuel Cocking Garden terrace below the tower. The Shonan coast produces dramatic sunsets in autumn and winter. The island lights come on after dark and the Nakamise Street restaurants fill up for dinner.
Tips:
- Sea Candle closes at 8 PM (last entry 7:30 PM)
- Autumn and winter sunsets are most spectacular. Summer has a good sunset but more atmospheric haze
- The Samuel Cocking Garden (surrounding the Sea Candle) is free to access via the Escar ticket area
- Restaurant dinner on the island: shirasu-don restaurants have shorter queues in the evening than at lunch
Kamakura and Enoshima Day Trip
Kamakura and Enoshima pair naturally on the same day trip from Tokyo. Start in Kamakura (temples and Great Buddha), take the Enoden coastal train to Enoshima in the afternoon, and return to Tokyo via Fujisawa and the Odakyu Line. The Kamakura-Enoshima Free Pass (approximately ¥1,970 from Shinjuku) covers all JR trains and Enoden for the day.
Tips:
- Kamakura-Enoshima Free Pass from Shinjuku (¥1,970): covers round-trip Odakyu + unlimited Enoden all day
- Enoden from Kamakura to Enoshima takes 23 minutes. Sit on the right side for coastal views
- Allow 2.5-3 hours for Enoshima. Start there before 3 PM to see the caves before they close at 6 PM
- Return from Enoshima via Odakyu from Katase-Enoshima to Shinjuku (about 70 minutes)
Plan Your Visit
Opening Hours
island
No gate: island is always accessible via the causeway
shrine
8:30 AM – 5:00 PM (shrine office hours; outdoor areas always open)
sea Candle
9:00 AM – 8:00 PM (last entry 7:30 PM)
iwaya Caves
9:00 AM – 6:00 PM (last entry 5:30 PM)
Best Time to Visit
Clear days for Sea Candle views (Mt. Fuji visible from the tower on clear winter mornings). Late afternoon for sunset over Sagami Bay. Low tide for the caves (check tide tables before visiting).
Avoid:
Summer beach weekends (July-August) and New Year. The island causeway and Nakamise Street can become fully congested on peak days.
Nearby
Katase Beach
The mainland beach on the north side of the causeway. Swimming in season (July-August), walking year-round.
0.3 km
Kamakura
Great Buddha, temples, and Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. 23 minutes by Enoden from Enoshima Station.
10 km
Shichi-ri-ga-hama Beach
A long sweeping beach along the Enoden coastline, visible from the train between Enoshima and Kamakura.
4 km
Gallery
Enoshima from the causeway: the Sea Candle visible on the island's skyline above the forested hillside
The Sea Candle observation deck: Sagami Bay in every direction, Mt. Fuji on clear days
Iwaya Cave: 152 meters of carved sea cave with Buddhist statues in candlelight
Nama shirasu-don: fresh whitebait from Sagami Bay, available April through December only
Enoshima's cats: find them in the side alleys and fishing areas away from the main path
History
founding
Enoshima Shrine was established in 552 AD according to shrine records, making it one of the oldest Benzaiten (goddess of beauty, music, and good fortune) shrines in Japan. The three connected shrines on the island were patronized by multiple shoguns including Minamoto Yoritomo, who prayed here before a decisive battle in 1182. The island's caves were a site of religious austerity practice (kugyo) from the Nara period onward.
significance
Enoshima is one of Japan's three principal sites dedicated to Benzaiten (the others are Chikubu-shima in Lake Biwa and Miyajima in Hiroshima Prefecture). The island's combination of shrine, cave, and lighthouse has made it a popular excursion since the Edo period, when it appeared in guidebooks as a day trip from Kamakura or Edo (Tokyo).
name Origin
Enoshima (江の島) means literally 'island of the inlet' or 'island of the bay' in Japanese, referring to its location in Sagami Bay. The shrine name Enoshima Jinja refers to the entire three-shrine complex dedicated to the three sister Benzaiten deities.
Getting There
Enoden (Enoshima Electric Railway)
Station: Enoshima Station (Enoden)
Exit: Main exit, toward the coast
Walk: 10 minutes to the island causeway entrance
Scenic coastal ride from Kamakura. Sit on the left side (facing Enoshima) for ocean views. The Enoden Day Pass (¥700) covers all Enoden stations including this route.
Odakyu Enoshima Line
Station: Katase-Enoshima Station (Odakyu)
Exit: South exit toward causeway
Walk: 8 minutes to the causeway entrance
Best route from Tokyo if not coming via Kamakura. The Kamakura-Enoshima Free Pass from Shinjuku (approximately ¥1,970) covers round-trip Odakyu + unlimited Enoden, the best value for a combined Kamakura and Enoshima day trip.
Location
Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0035
Nearest: Enoshima Station (Enoden / Enoshima Electric Railway) or Katase-Enoshima Station (Odakyu Enoshima Line) (10 minutes from either station to the island causeway entrance)
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