Shimanami Kaido
しまなみ海道
A cycling guide to Japan's greatest ride: 70km island-hopping across the Seto Inland Sea
About Shimanami Kaido
The Shimanami Kaido is the best cycling experience in Japan, and arguably one of the best in the world. This 70-kilometer route connects Imabari in Shikoku to Onomichi in Honshu, hopping across six islands in the Seto Inland Sea via massive bridges with dedicated cycling lanes. The views are extraordinary: turquoise water below, pine-covered islands in every direction, citrus groves lining the roads, and tiny fishing harbors where time seems to have stopped. Each island has its own personality, from the ancient shrine on Omishima to the art-filled streets of Setoda on Ikuchijima. The route is well-marked with a blue line painted on the road, bikes are easy to rent at terminals on both ends, and bridge tolls for cyclists are currently free.
Essential Tips
BIKE RENTAL: The public rental system (Shimanami Japan) has 10 terminals across the route. Standard bikes cost ¥3,000/day. You can pick up at one terminal and drop off at any other: this is the easiest option for a one-way crossing.
E-BIKES: Available but limited and must be reserved in advance. They cost more (~¥5,000+/day) and generally must be returned to the same terminal. Book early if you want one: they sell out.
PRIVATE RENTALS: Shops like Giant Store Onomichi and Giant Store Imabari offer higher-quality road bikes and cross bikes (¥3,800–¥17,000/day). These typically must be returned to the same shop, but the ride quality is much better.
THE ONOMICHI FERRY: If starting from Onomichi, take the short ferry to Mukaishima Island (~¥110 with bike, runs frequently). The first bridge on the Onomichi side doesn't have a proper cycling lane: everyone takes the ferry instead.
BRIDGE TOLLS: Currently free for cyclists (waived since 2014, extended through March 2026). You don't need to pay anything to cross the bridges.
FOLLOW THE BLUE LINE: A blue line is painted on the road surface for the entire route. Follow it and you won't get lost. Different colors mark different routes on some islands.
LUGGAGE FORWARDING: Don't carry bags on the bike. Sagawa Express and other services can forward your luggage between Imabari and Onomichi (or hotels). Ask at your accommodation or the rental terminal.
FOOD & WATER: Vending machines are everywhere (this is Japan), but restaurants are scattered. Setoda on Ikuchijima is the best food stop. Eat when you find a place open: don't assume the next island will have something.
Try the local mikan (citrus): fresh juice from vending machines, mikan gelato at Dolce in Setoda, mikan soft serve. Ehime is Japan's citrus capital.
The hills between bridges are real, especially on Oshima (first island from Imabari). The bridges themselves are accessed via looping ramps, not steep climbs. An e-bike helps a lot if you're not a regular cyclist.
Wear sunscreen and bring a light rain jacket. The bridges have zero shade: you're completely exposed to sun and wind.
The route is extremely safe and well-maintained. Families with young children ride it. The cycling lanes are separated from car traffic on the bridges.
BUSES: The Shimanami Cycle Express bus runs between Onomichi and Imabari (3 times daily) and you can bring your bike on board. Useful as an escape route if weather turns or legs give out.
Don't Miss
Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge (来島海峡大橋)
The world's longest suspension bridge series: three spans totaling 4km over open sea. You cycle up a looping ramp and then it's just you, the bike, and the Seto Inland Sea in every direction. Cargo ships pass below, Shikoku's mountains fade behind you. This is the bridge that makes the entire trip worthwhile. It's near the Imabari (Shikoku) end, so start from that side to get it fresh.
Oyamazumi Shrine (大山祇神社): Omishima Island
Japan's most important Shinto shrine for maritime worship, housing an extraordinary 80% of all nationally designated treasure armor and weapons. The ancient camphor trees in the grounds are enormous; the oldest is said to be 2,600 years old. This is a proper stop, not a quick photo. Budget 30–45 minutes. There's a bike rack right at the entrance.
Tatara Bridge: The Singing Bridge
An elegant cable-stayed bridge connecting Omishima and Ikuchijima. Stop at the midpoint marker and clap your hands: the sound echoes off the cables in a surreal 'singing' effect. The viewpoint near the bridge tower has one of the best panoramic views of the entire inland sea. Don't just ride over it: stop here.
Setoda Town & Kosanji Temple: Ikuchijima Island
Setoda is the best place to stop for food and exploring. Kosanji Temple is an over-the-top reproduction of famous Japanese temple architecture (gaudy? maybe. fun? absolutely). Climb up to the 'Hill of Hope', a surreal white marble sculpture garden with panoramic sea views. The town has great gelato at Dolce and fresh seafood restaurants along the waterfront.
What to Do Here
Full Crossing in One Day
Totally doable for anyone with reasonable fitness, but it's a full day. An average recreational cyclist covers the route in about 8 hours at a relaxed pace (including a lunch break). Experienced road cyclists can do it faster, but most people aren't racing: you'll want to stop for photos, snacks, and shrine visits. Start by 8:00–8:30 AM from whichever end you choose. If starting from Onomichi, take the short ferry to Mukaishima first (there's no good cycling lane on the first bridge on that side).
Tips:
- Start from Imabari for slightly more downhill and the best bridge (Kurushima) first
- Starting from Onomichi? Take the ferry to Mukaishima (¥110 with bike, runs frequently)
- Follow the blue line painted on the road: it IS the route, you can't get lost
- Use the luggage forwarding service between Imabari and Onomichi so you ride light
- Eat when you see a restaurant: they're not on every corner
Two-Day Ride with Island Overnight (Recommended)
This is how you should do it if you can. Ride half the route on day one, spend the night on Omishima or Ikuchijima (both roughly midway), and finish the next morning. You'll actually have time to visit Oyamazumi Shrine properly, swim at a beach, eat fresh seafood for dinner, and catch the sunset over the inland sea. The islands at night are incredibly peaceful: no traffic, stars everywhere.
Tips:
- Setoda on Ikuchijima and the area near Oyamazumi Shrine on Omishima are the best overnight bases
- Book accommodation in advance: there aren't many options and they fill up in season
- Tell the rental terminal you're keeping the bike overnight
- Day 1: cover 35–40km. Day 2: a relaxed morning ride to finish
Partial Ride: Imabari to Omishima & Back
Short on time? Ride from Imabari across the incredible Kurushima Bridge to Oshima, continue over Hakatajima, and end at Omishima where you can visit Oyamazumi Shrine. This covers the two most spectacular bridges and the best cultural stop. Return your bike at the Omishima terminal and catch a bus back, or cycle back the way you came for a solid day ride.
Tips:
- Drop your bike at the Omishima rental terminal and take a bus back to Imabari
- Or do it as a round-trip (~50km total) for a proper workout
- This section has the most dramatic scenery of the entire route
- Check bus schedules from Omishima in advance: they're not frequent
Plan Your Visit
Opening Hours
route
The bridges and cycling lanes are accessible 24/7
bike Rentals
Varies by terminal, typically 8:00–17:00. Imabari Itoyama stays open until 20:00 Apr–Sep
ferries
Onomichi ↔ Mukaishima ferry runs frequently from early morning until evening (~¥110 with bike)
Best Time to Visit
Late March–May (mild, cherry blossoms) or October–November (clear skies, comfortable temperatures). Avoid July–August: the heat and humidity on exposed bridges is brutal. Typhoon season (Aug–Oct) can disrupt plans.
Avoid:
Golden Week (late April–early May): rental bikes sell out and accommodation books up fast
Nearby
Onomichi
Hillside port town with 25 temples, cats everywhere, and excellent ramen. Spend the night before or after your ride: one of western Japan's most atmospheric small cities.
Route terminus (Honshu side)
Imabari
Famous for towel manufacturing (seriously, visit the Towel Museum). Imabari Castle is a quick stop. Most people use it as a transit point.
Route terminus (Shikoku side)
Matsuyama & Dogo Onsen
Shikoku's largest city with Japan's oldest hot spring. Soaking in Dogo Onsen after a day of cycling is the perfect reward for your legs.
~1 hour from Imabari by bus/train
Hiroshima & Miyajima
Peace Memorial Park, the floating torii gate, and Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. A natural pairing with the Shimanami Kaido for a western Japan trip.
~1.5 hours from Onomichi by train
Gallery
The world's longest suspension bridge series: 4km of cycling over open sea
Dedicated cycling lanes: follow the blue line painted on the road
Tatara Bridge: stop at the midpoint and clap for the 'singing bridge' echo
Tiny fishing villages on each island, a world away from Tokyo
The ancient camphor trees at Oyamazumi Shrine on Omishima
Stay overnight on an island and the sunset is your reward
History
founding
The Shimanami Kaido (officially the Nishiseto Expressway) opened in May 1999 as the third and final bridge route connecting Honshu and Shikoku across the Seto Inland Sea. Unlike the Great Seto Bridge and Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, this route was designed from the start with dedicated cycling and pedestrian lanes alongside the expressway.
significance
It has become one of the world's most famous cycling routes, regularly appearing in international cycling media and attracting riders from all over the world. The cycling infrastructure (wide separated lanes, looping bridge ramps, rental terminals on every island) was built into the original design, not added as an afterthought. CNN has listed it among the world's best cycling routes.
reconstruction
The six islands along the route have been inhabited for millennia. Omishima was a major center of maritime worship: Oyamazumi Shrine was the guardian deity of the Seto Inland Sea and houses 80% of Japan's nationally designated treasure armor. The islands were also home to the Murakami Suigun, powerful medieval pirate-lords who controlled trade through the inland sea.
name Origin
'Shimanami' (島並み) means 'island-lined', describing the chain of islands the route threads through. 'Kaido' (海道) means 'sea road'. The official name 'Nishiseto' means 'Western Seto', referring to the western part of the Seto Inland Sea.
Getting There
Train to Imabari (Shikoku start, recommended)
Station: JR Imabari Station
Exit: North exit
Walk: 10 minutes to Sunrise Itoyama rental terminal
Covered by JR Pass. Most popular starting point: slightly more downhill heading toward Onomichi.
Bus from Matsuyama to Imabari
Station: Matsuyama Station or Dogo Onsen bus stop
Exit:
Walk: Bus drops you near JR Imabari Station
About 1 hour. Convenient if you're staying in Matsuyama.
Train to Onomichi (Honshu start)
Station: JR Onomichi Station
Exit: South exit (waterfront side)
Walk: 5 minutes to Onomichi Port rental terminal
Covered by JR Pass. Take the ferry to Mukaishima to start riding (no cycling lane on first bridge). Arrive the night before: Onomichi is worth exploring.
Shimanami Cycle Express Bus
Station: Runs between Onomichi Station and Imabari Station
Exit:
Walk: Stops at terminals along the route
3 departures daily each direction. You can load bikes on board. Useful for getting back to your starting point after a one-way ride.
Location
Imabari, Ehime to Onomichi, Hiroshima
Nearest: Imabari Station (JR Yosan Line, Shikoku side) / Onomichi Station (JR Sanyo Line, Honshu side) (10 min to Imabari Sunrise Itoyama terminal, 5 min to Onomichi Port terminal)
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