Hokokuji Temple
報国寺
Two thousand bamboo stalks, a tea house inside the grove, and a quieter alternative to Kyoto's famous bamboo
About Hokokuji Temple
Hokokuji is a 14th-century Rinzai Zen temple in eastern Kamakura with a bamboo grove on the hillside behind the main hall. About 2,000 moso bamboo stalks create a column of green and the particular sound of bamboo moving in wind that Arashiyama is famous for, but here in a fraction of the space and usually with a fraction of the crowd. The Kyukkoan tea house inside the grove serves matcha while you sit on low cushions surrounded by the stalks. The rest of the temple grounds include the Ashikaga family mausoleum, a karesansui dry garden, and stone carvings old enough to have moss entirely covering their original features.
Essential Tips
Pay ¥500 (not ¥300) at the gate to include the matcha at the Kyukkoan tea house inside the grove
Check the Monday closure before visiting. Closed Mondays, except national holidays
Opens at 9 AM, closes at 4 PM. Arrive by 9:30 AM on weekdays for the quietest grove
Morning light through the bamboo is substantially better than afternoon light. The grove faces east
This is less crowded than the Arashiyama bamboo in Kyoto but fills on peak weekend afternoons. Weekday visits are reliably peaceful
Bus #23 or #36 from Kamakura Station to the Jomyoji stop takes about 15 minutes (¥220). Walking takes 30 minutes
Bicycle rental near Kamakura Station makes exploring the eastern temples much easier. Hokokuji is the furthest east and the most worth cycling to
Zuisen-ji garden temple is 10 minutes' walk south and rarely visited. A good addition if you have extra time
Don't Miss
Matcha in the Bamboo Grove
The Kyukkoan tea house operates inside the bamboo grove. You pay ¥500 total (entry plus tea) at the gate, enter the grove, and sit on low cushions with a matcha bowl and a seasonal sweet while the bamboo moves above you. The tea house is modest and the service is unhurried. It is not a tourist experience dressed as a ceremony; it is what Zen temple tea has always been: a simple drink in a meaningful setting.
The Bamboo Grove
The grove is smaller than Arashiyama's but more intimate: the path winds rather than running straight, and because the grove is on a hillside the stalks above your head lean slightly. In a light breeze the bamboo makes a hollow knocking sound; in a stronger wind it creates a rushing that muffles the city entirely. The light inside is green-filtered and shifts constantly.
Ashikaga Mausoleum
Within the grounds, behind the main hall, a collection of mossy stone tablets and carved stupas marks the graves of the Ashikaga clan, who founded the temple in 1334. The stones are so old that some features are entirely obscured by lichen and moss. The mausoleum is rarely crowded and is more atmospheric for its wear than it would be clean.
What to Do Here
Bamboo Grove and Matcha
The full Hokokuji experience: pay ¥500 at the gate, walk the grove path, sit at the Kyukkoan tea house with matcha, then walk the grove again on the way out. The tea house usually has low cushion seating outdoors as well as under the eaves; the outdoor seats are better in dry weather. Allow yourself 15-20 minutes in the grove rather than walking through quickly.
Tips:
- Pay ¥500 (not ¥300) at the entrance to include the matcha
- Morning light through the bamboo is significantly better than afternoon
- The tea house can have a short wait on weekends: place your order and wait at the nearest cushion
- The grove path is a loop: walk it in both directions for different perspectives
Eastern Kamakura Temples Circuit
Hokokuji is in the eastern part of Kamakura, where several temples cluster within easy walking distance. Combine with Zuisen-ji (a formal garden temple, 10-minute walk south), Sugimoto-dera (Kamakura's oldest temple, 10-minute walk west), and Egara Tenjin Shrine. Rent a bicycle from Kamakura Station (about ¥500-700/half day) for the easiest navigation between these eastern sites, which are spread out and less well-served by buses.
Tips:
- Bicycle rental from near Kamakura Station: multiple shops, approximately ¥500 for 2 hours or ¥700 for a half-day
- Start at Hokokuji first (closes at 4 PM, check Monday closure) then continue to Sugimoto-dera
- Zuisen-ji has a beautiful garden and is often empty on weekdays
- Return via the main road (Kamakura-kaido) which has a bike lane most of the way
Plan Your Visit
Opening Hours
general
9:00 AM – 4:00 PM
closed Days
Mondays (open if Monday is a national holiday, closed the following Tuesday)
Best Time to Visit
Morning (9-10:30 AM) on a weekday for the bamboo grove at its quietest. The light through the bamboo is best before noon.
Avoid:
Weekend Golden Week and autumn foliage weekends can be busier than expected for a less-famous site
Nearby
Sugimoto-dera Temple
Kamakura's oldest temple (734 AD), with mossy stone steps and a thatched roof. Small but atmospheric.
0.8 km
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine
Kamakura's central shrine. 20-minute walk west or 10-minute bus from nearby stops.
1.3 km
Kamakura Station
The main hub for transport, Komachi-dori shopping, and restaurants. Bus from Jomyoji bus stop (15 min) or 30-minute walk.
2.5 km
History
founding
Hokokuji was founded in 1334 by the Buddhist monk Tengan Eko at the behest of the Ashikaga clan. The Ashikaga family mausoleum within the grounds dates to this founding period. The temple follows the Rinzai Zen tradition and is formally affiliated with the Engaku-ji lineage of Zen temples in Kamakura.
significance
The temple's bamboo grove became widely known in the late 20th century as Kamakura's alternative to Kyoto's Arashiyama. The moso bamboo variety (the same species grown in Arashiyama) was likely planted by Zen monks for practical use as building material and for the meditative quality of the sound. The grove is now the temple's principal draw and the primary source of its maintenance income.
Getting There
Bus from Kamakura Station
Station: Kamakura Station (JR Yokosuka Line)
Exit: East exit bus stop
Walk: 3 minutes from Jomyoji bus stop to temple
Bus #23 (Kinubarigo-ko) or #36 (Kamakura Reien Shoko Kinenkan-mae) from Kamakura Station East Exit to Jomyoji bus stop. Journey about 15 minutes. Most convenient option for those without bicycles.
Bicycle from Kamakura Station
Station: Kamakura Station
Exit:
Walk: 15 minutes cycling east
Rental shops near the station. Cycling makes the eastern temple circuit (Hokokuji, Sugimoto-dera, Zuisen-ji) significantly more practical. The route follows the main road east with adequate pavement.
Walking from Kamakura Station
Station: Kamakura Station (JR Yokosuka Line)
Exit:
Walk: 30 minutes east along the main road
A straightforward walk east along Kamakura-kaido. Pass Tsurugaoka Hachimangu on the way. Manageable in cooler weather; a stretch in summer.
Location
2-7-4 Jomyoji, Kamakura, Kanagawa 248-0003
Nearest: Kamakura Station (JR Yokosuka Line) (30 minutes on foot east, or 15 minutes by bus)
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